Mask Class

You will need:
can of latex rubber for casting mold forms clay shellac mold soap cheap natural bristle brush denatured alcohol cheese cloth or sawdust quarter yard of crinoline fabric or absorbent fabric petroleum jelly cheese cloth “fgr 95” gypsum plaster available from ceramic supply, or sculpture supply. You can also use rock hard water putty from hardware store. polypropylene fibers,or hydrate able fibrous material

Out of wet clay,shape a form you would like to reproduce. While it is still damp,you coat it with several layers of shellac that must dry between coats. Wash brush with denatured alcohol. Do not breathe alcohol. Work outside. The shellac seals the clay so you may proceed with the latex process.

Soap down your piece that has been shellacked with mold soap or other kind of mold release. Do not miss any areas.

Make a roll of clay to seal the gap between the piece of glass and your mask. You do not want latex to seep under. Plug the eyes or mouth if necessary..

Use a natural bristle brush that you do not treasure. Coat it with dish soap. Take a little latex in a cup and dilute it 30 % and paint your first layer over your piece. Blow away any bubbles that would have formed from the soap.

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Using full strength latex,continue with all the layers. Letting them thoroughly dry between coats. Build up layers but do not let more than a day go by between them, otherwise the layers will not stick to each other. They advise not to have your latex dry directly in the sun,

After two or three layers,you can lay down cheesecloth with latex over it. Some use sawdust or other thickeners to economize on latex. I usually have at least two coats of cheesecloth.

Some use sawdust or other thickeners to economize on latex. I usually have at least two coats of cheesecloth.

You must saturate the latex. You should have pure smooth, or slightly diluted latex so it is smooth for the last layer.

Make your mother mold and eliminate any undercuts with wads of clay. An undercut is where shapes indent or go under. You want your plaster to pull off easily,so make your shape like an ascending mountain.

If your latex is dry after at least 5-7 coats depending on the size of your material ( a half inch thick for large items),then coat the whole thing with a layer of petroleum jelly or soap,or cooking oil.

Mix up your fgr 95,or hydrocal, first only putting an inch of water in the bottom of a flexible bowl. keep adding your gypsum until a mountain of the white powder forms,Let it absorb and then add a little
more. more.

Mix this with a whisk thoroughly,add some polyproplene fibers ,or fibrous material to strengthen your f gypsum plaster. Use cut up pieces of crinoline fabric from millinery shop absorbant wipes,sisal,or shredded rope.

Fibers keep the mixture under control and prevented from falling back into the nose or down the walls. Coat the top of your latex mask adding cheesecloth and then covering over the cheesecloth. Let harden.

Remove your "mother mold "(as it is called-a place to protect) and mother your latex mold which can deform and dry out if not stored properly. Hopefully you have been skillful with your undercuts.

Cut up some crinoline pieces or buy special fiberglass roving from sculpture supply shop. Mix up another batch of rock hard water putty or gypsum as before. Use only an inch of water.
putty or gypsum as before. Use only an inch of water.

Slush the gypsum into the mask and then dip your fibers into the gypsum and layer them inside your rubber mold. Try to use more of the gypsum sauce than the crinoline fibers. Remember the gypsum is the glue!

Remove the rubber from your original shape and place inside your mother mold. Now you are ready to cast the first one.

Let harden. Remove your mother mold first and then carefully remove your casting starting with the forehead first . Be patient and viola!-your piece will emerge! Paint it, sand it trim or drill holes into the gypsum. while it is still wet.

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